Crabby, gingery linguine recipe

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The texture of a softshell crab (a blue crab in its molten state) is a marvel: crunchy, meaty, and soft all at the same time. Fresh softshell crabs are available from May to September in some parts of the country, but frozen ones are just as good in this dish. The ginger and carrot juice keep things bright and refreshing. To wake the dish up even further, add a squeeze of lemon to the pasta at the end. Excellent with a bold, unoaked Chardonnay.

  • Yield: 4 Servings

Ingredients

  • About 2 teaspoons unsalted butter
  • About 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme leaves
  • 4 whole softshell crabs
  • Kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • About 3 tablespoons dry white wine
  • 3 tablespoons minced fresh oregano
  • Pinch of cayenne or other red pepper
  • 1 large onion, minced
  • 3 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
  • About 1 tablespoon cream
  • About 2 tablespoons carrot juice
  • 1 pound linguine
  • Coarsely grated Asiago cheese
  • 1 lemon, preferably Meyer (optional)
How to Make It
  1. Bring a big pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
  2. Meanwhile, melt 1 teaspoon of the butter with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the thyme and crabs, salt and pepper generously, and gently sauté both sides until lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Remove and set aside. Add a splash of wine (about 2 tablespoons) to the pan to deglaze and scrape up any browned bits. Pour that liquid into a blender and wipe out the pan with a paper towel.
  3. Melt a little more butter with a little more olive oil in the same pan over medium heat. Add the oregano, cayenne, onion, and ginger. Salt and pepper liberally and sauté until soft, about 10 minutes. Add the onion mixture to the deglazing liquid in the blender. Add about 1 tablespoon white wine, the cream, and the carrot juice and puree. Taste for salt. Pour the puree back into the pan and cook for a few minutes to reduce slightly, which will intensify the flavor.
  4. On a cutting board, chop the crab into bite-sized pieces, then divide into 4 equal piles.
  5. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until al dente; try to time it so that it’s done just as everything else is done. Drain it and return it to the pot. Add the sauce to the pasta and incorporate it thoroughly, using chopsticks or a wooden spoon. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper. Salty is good for this dish. Work in some cheese to taste.
  6. Divide the pasta among 4 large heated bowls and top with the crab (you may want to briefly reheat the crab in the pan before adding it). Squeeze on the lemon if desired. Top with a little more cheese and serve very hot.
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