Savarins Aux Fruits Recipe

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Bouchon Bakery (The Thomas Keller Library)These brioche creations, baked in ring-shaped molds, are named for the French lawyer and politician Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, one of the earliest, and best known, writers on gastronomy. (His Physiology of Taste, first published in 1825, has never been out of print.) Traditionally the baker grabs a handful of dough, squeezes it so that a ball of dough rises out of his fist, and scrapes that into the mold; the dough can also be piped into the molds. Usually savarins are soaked with rum, but preferring to avoid using alcohol here, we soak them in a passion fruit syrup; the tart fruit balances the sweetness of the sugar syrup.

  • Yield: 8 Servings (4 savarins)

Ingredients

Dough
  • 1¾ cups + 1½ tsp (250 g) All-purpose flour
  • 1 tbsp + ¼ tsp (25 g) Granulated sugar
  • 1½ + 1/8 tsp (5 g) Kosher salt
  • 1½ tsp (5 g) Instant yeast
  • ½ cup (125 g) Eggs
  • ¼ cup + 2 tbsp (88 g) Water, at 75°F/23.8°C
  • 3.3 ounces (94 g) Unsalted butter, melted and still warm
Syrup
  • 3 cups + 2 tbsp (750 g) Water
  • 1½ cups + 3 tbsp (338 g) Granulated sugar
  • 6.6 ounces (188 g) Passion fruit puree
  • 1½ vanilla beans, split lengthwise
  • 4¼ cup (420 g) Sweetened Whipped Cream
  • 1 banana
  • 1 small pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into ½-by-¼- inch pieces; small leaves reserved for garnish
  • 1 mango, peeled, pitted, and cut into ¼-inch dice
  • 1 papaya, peeled, halved lengthwise, and seeded, and cut into 1/8-inch slices
  • 1 orange, rind removed and segmented
  • 4 lychees, cut in half lengthwise
  • Granulated sugar (optional)
How to Make It
    For the Dough
  1. Place the flour, sugar, salt, and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix on the lowest setting for 30 seconds. With the mixer running, add the eggs and mix for 1 minute. Continue to mix on low speed for 2 minutes. Reduce the speed to the lowest setting, slowly add the water, and mix for 1 minute. Increase the speed to low and mix for 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and the paddle. Mix for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the dough, which will be very sticky, begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl.
  2. Scrape down the bowl and the paddle again and turn the mixer to the lowest setting. Gradually add the butter, then mix for 3 minutes. Continue to mix on low speed for 7 to 9 minutes, until the dough is completely smooth and very soft, like a batter. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
  3. Spray the savarin molds (even if nonstick) with nonstick spray.
  4. Traditionally the dough is portioned by hand, but it can also be piped through a pastry bag. If portioning by hand (it is best to use gloves for this), grab a handful of dough and make a fist, squeezing a ball of dough above your fingers, and place it in a mold. Continue making balls and adding them until you have filled the mold, then repeat with the remaining dough and molds. Or, using a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch plain tip, pipe equal amounts of dough into the molds (use 130 grams of dough for each one). This dessert is meant to be shared; it makes 4 savarins to serve 8.
  5. Dip your finger in water and spread the dough evenly in the molds. Arrange the molds on a sheet pan and proof, uncovered, for about 30 minutes, until the dough fills the bottoms of the molds and has risen slightly.
  6. Preheat the oven to 325°F (convection) or 350°F (standard).
  7. Bake the savarins for 25 to 30 minutes in a convection oven, 35 to 40 minutes in a standard oven, rotating the sheet pan halfway through, until golden brown. Unmold the savarins onto a cooling rack, set over a sheet pan, and cool.
  8. For the Syrup
  9. Meanwhile, combine all of the ingredients in a large saucepan, scraping the vanilla bean seeds and adding them and the pods. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Strain into a 6- to 8-inch-wide bowl.
  10. The savarins should be soaked when the syrup is 130°F/54°C: if it is too hot, the savarins could fall apart; too cold, and they won’t absorb the syrup. One at a time, submerge the savarins in the syrup, turning to soak all sides. Return to the rack. Let stand for 2 to 4 hours before serving. (Reserve the syrup.)
  11. Just before serving, brush the savarins with syrup again. Place a savarin on each serving plate. Spoon the whipped cream into the piping bag with the star tip and fill the centers with whipped cream, then pipe rosettes over half of each ring. Cut the banana into 1/8-inch-thick slices. Arrange the fruit over and around the savarins and serve.
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